Works by completely shutting down the body’s oil production and increases cell turnover. It will destroy your digestive system (leading to more acne later on) and can cause permanent liver damage. Accutane disrupts the way serotonin is made and utilized by the body. Low levels of serotonin have been linked to depression, bipolar disorder, anxiety disorders, and aggression.

Having a pH ("potential hydrogen") less than 7. The skin’s barrier, or acid mantle, is naturally slightly acidic, with a pH hovering around 4.5 to 5.5. When it drops out of range, the skin becomes prone to breakouts and irritation.

The natural acidic outer layer of the skin that helps prevent bacterial invasion.

A skin condition caused by clogged pores, excess oil production, and bacteria. When pores become clogged with oil and dead skin cells, it causes whiteheads, blackheads, and inflamed pimples on the skin.

Having a pH ("potential hydrogen") greater than 7. Alkaline substances are also known as "basic" — the opposite of acidic. When skin is too alkaline — as a result of eating the wrong foods or using the wrong products — it gets dry, irritated, inflamed, and is more prone to wrinkling.

Derived from the leaf of the aloe plant, aloe leaf juice is a super anti-inflammatory ingredient containing antioxidants, enzymes, and vitamins that soothes and hydrates the skin. It often creates a cooling and refreshing effect, making it a hero for sunburns, problem skin, and dry skin.

AHAs are animal or plant-based acids which work as a natural exfoliant for the skin. They work to exfoliate the outermost layer, dissolving the “glue” between dead skin cells. Theses acids help to improve dry skin, signs of aging and hyperpigmentation by increasing cell turnover. The most common AHAs are glycolic and lactic acid.

The building blocks of the proteins that make up collagen and elastin - substances that give the skin its structural support. Aging and a combination of external factors (including UV light and environmental toxins) reduce the level of amino acids in the body.

Antioxidants are essential to maintaining healthy skin because they help to defend your skin against damage from free radicals. Antioxidants work by neutralizing free radicals (highly reactive molecules in the environment). When the balance of free radicals and antioxidants in the skin is off, free radicals damage your skin which leads to hyperpigmentation, loss of elasticity, and premature aging. These ingredients are found in berries, nuts, plants, and more.

A type of acid synthesized by wheat, barley, rye, and the yeast that’s known to have a gentle exfoliating effect. Used in topical rosacea and acne treatments, synthetic versions help kill bacteria living in pores while reducing inflammation. It's also used to lighten melasma patches and other hyper-pigmented areas.

Bentonite is an absorbent clay, often formed from weathering of volcanic ash, that is commonly used in cleansers and masks. It pulls out impurities in your skin, like oil and bacteria; unclogging pores and removing dead skin cells.

Benzoyl peroxide works to reduce blemishes by releasing oxygen and killing bacteria when it comes in contact with the skin. Working as an antiseptic, it’s absorbed directly by the skin into the pores. By reducing acne-causing bacteria, it helps to prevent future breakouts and redness. It is recommended to start with a 2.5-5% BPO 2x/week and then increase to daily use once the skin is tolerable.

Closely related to AHAs, beta hydroxy acids are oil-soluble acids that penetrate the lining of pores to dissolve oil and reduce the size of pores and blemishes. They also work to remove dead skin cells to improve the texture of the skin (a commonly known BHA is salicylic acid). Their ability to dissolve oil makes them suitable for those with blemish-prone skin.

A B vitamin found in meat, eggs, seeds, nuts, and some vegetables that helps turn food into energy. It plays a major role in the growth and health of hair and nails. For acne-prone skin, avoid biotin supplements as it can thicken sebum & keratin and lead to clogged pores.

There are two types of UV light that can increase your risk for skin cancer: UVA which is linked to aging and UVB which is linked to burning. Broad spectrum sunscreen helps protect against both types of rays.

Derived from cannabis, CBD is free from THC so it won’t get you high. However, it has multiple skin benefits since it’s an antioxidant, an anti-inflammatory, and is extremely moisturizing. It encourages skin to produce lipids, the natural fats that maintain skin’s moisture barrier.

The continual process of shedding dead skin cells and then replacing them with fresh, younger cells.

Naturally occurring fats that can be found in your sebum (skin's oil). If your skin cells are the bricks, ceramides are the mortar holding it all together. These naturally occurring fatty lipids make up 50% of the skin barrier. Age and sun damage can deplete them, so use products containing ceramides to stay plump, hydrated and protected.

Chemical exfoliants are the gentler cousins of physical exfoliants. Where physical exfoliants manually scrub or brush off dead skin cells, chemical exfoliants (lactic acid, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid) break the bonds between those dead skin cells so that they are easily washed away. This helps with anti-aging, managing acne and evening skin complexion. AHAs and BHAs are two common types of chemical exfoliants.

A chemical procedure that aims to improve the appearance of the skin by removing the top layer.

An unregulated marketing term. It embodies the philosophy of beauty without any “harmful” ingredients. The harmful ingredients can vary from brand to brand.

It is the most abundant protein in your body, and it’s what gives your skin firmness and bounce. While it plays such a big part in the elasticity of your skin, unfortunately collagen does break down naturally as you age, leading to sagging. Collagen production can be stimulated by using ingredients formulated for aging skin (like retinol). Collagen only comes from animal sources, but there are some vegan alternatives to be used in skincare.

Put simply, comedogenic means ‘pore-clogging’. It’s a way to describe the group of ingredients that cause product acne (small white bumps on the skin). You generally want to look for non-comedogenic products.

Better known as pimples. Comedones are the small bumps found on your skin when a pore/hair follicle becomes blocked by dead skin cells, bacteria, and/or sebum. There are two types: open comedones (blackheads) and closed comedones (whiteheads).

This severe, potentially scarring type of acne develops when a plug of dead skin cells, sebum, and bacteria lodges deep inside a pore, creating a tender, pus-filled bump that sometimes ruptures the pore wall, spreading to surrounding tissue.

A technique of using a sterile single-edge blade to scrape off the superficial, outer layer of your skin where the dead skin cells live. It is a form of physical exfoliation that softens and brightening skin and is suitable for all skin types.

A common skin condition that is caused by inflammation. There are several types like atopic dermatitis and contact dermatitis. Dermatitis is not contagious.

Atopic dermatitis, or eczema, is a condition that causes patches of skin to feel inflamed, dry, scaly, itchy, red, cracked, and/or rough. It often appears in the crooks of the elbows, neck, wrists, and knees. It's likely hereditary, and often triggered by allergic reactions to pollen and smoke. While there's no cure, flare-ups can be relieved through sufficient moisturizing, cleansing with gentle soaps, and avoiding hot showers and baths.

When the top layer of your skin doesn’t contain enough water, it dries out. This causes the skin to crack and flake off, leaving open spaces between the cells in your skin. Emollients are moisturizing ingredients that penetrate the spaces between your skin cells and leave the skin feeling softer and smoother. Emollients that contain a lot of oil are also occlusive agents, which means they coat your skin with a thin oily film that seals the water in your skin. They’re often used by those with extra-dry skin or conditions like eczema, psoriasis and dermatitis.

Proteins that helps to create a chemical reaction in the skin. They are used to promote exfoliation by breaking down your keratin protein.

Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) are needed for healthy, radiant, and soft skin. EFAs can't be produced by the body, so look for dietary sources, supplements, and skincare products containing these ingredients to keep your skin nourished, plump, and supple. Great dietary EFA sources are fish, flaxseed, chia seeds, sunflower seeds, and walnuts.

The generic term for natural and/or synthetic compounds used to scent products. Fragrance blends are typically considered trade secrets and can contain over 1,000 ingredients (mainly oils and alcohols), none of which have to be revealed on the label. Fragrance is the number-one cause of allergic reactions to skin-care products.

Free radicals are highly unstable molecules produced inside the body by things such as sunlight, cigarette smoke, and environmental pollution. They latch onto and damage cells, resulting in roughness, sagging, wrinkling, and other signs of aging. Antioxidants work to neutralize them.

This age-accelerating process occurs when sugar molecules in the bloodstream bind to protein tissue throughout the body, creating advanced glycation end products (AGEs), free-radical damage, and inflammation. Among the tissues affected are the collagen and elastin fibers responsible for keeping skin smooth, plump, and flexible, which is why scientists now link a chronically high-glycemic diet to premature wrinkling and sagging.

It's a humectant, meaning it pulls moisture from the atmosphere to hydrate skin. Commonly used in moisturizers and hydrating cleansers, this is an inexpensive ingredient.

An alpha hydroxy acid derived from sugarcane, it dissolves the gluelike substance between skin cells, aiding in exfoliation and improving skin texture. It's commonly used in high-end products, such as cleansers, creams, and peels. Glycolic acid is great for treating dull skin, dryness, and for fading pigmentation.

Produced by stem cells throughout the body, these large proteins relay messages crucial to cellular growth and division. The human-derived growth factors used by cosmetic companies have been shown to help rejuvenate skin by stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis while improving radiance, hydration, and pigmentation.

A type of hydrating ingredient found in moisturizers that actually draws water into the skin, but doesn’t necessarily keep it there. Common ingredients like glycerin and hyaluronic acid are humectants.

Hyaluronic acid is found naturally in the skin and acts as a humectant, meaning it can draw moisture into the skin. This powerful ingredient can attract up to 1,000 times weight in water from moisture in the air. Hyaluronic acid is a key ingredient in many skincare products for all skin types, both for its moisture-retaining benefits as well as its ability to deliver other active ingredients like Vitamin C to the skin.

A highly effective ingredient for lightening dark spots and inhibiting melanin production. The FDA allows a maximum of 2% hydroquinone in Over-The-Counter cosmetic formulations, where prescription formulas can contain up to 4% hydroquinone. Not safe for pregnant or nursing mothers.

Often triggered by UV light exposure, a wound, illness, hormonal changes, or certain drugs, this darkening of the skin might appear as a uniform tan, melasma (patches of discoloration), or an isolated acne scar.

From jojoba plant seeds, jojoba oil is similar to the skin's natural oil. It is easily absorbed and works with the natural lipids in the skin, preventing water loss to soften the skin. It is very stable and is frequently found in moisturizers, lipsticks, and shampoos and conditioners.

A type of clay mineral that absorbs excess oil and stamps down shine when applied to the surface of the skin. Like most clays, it also has some mild exfoliating properties. No matter its color (it can be red, yellow, white, or pink), it’s considered to be a mild type of clay and is recommended for use on delicate skin, such as mature or sensitive skin.

Keratin is a protein found in skin, hair, and nails, and so is often a featured ingredient in products that aim to fortify the outermost layer of skin, smooth and strengthen hair, and protect and nourish nails.

Sometimes referred to as “chicken skin,” keratosis pilaris looks like tiny, often red, white, or flesh-colored bumps on the skin. It’s totally harmless and caused by a buildup of keratin around the hair follicle, which can clog pores and cause inflammation or redness in the area. This condition can be treated with lactic acid creams or scrubs.

Derived from fermented milk, this alpha hydroxy acid exfoliates dead skin cells and is gentle enough for people with sensitive skin or rosacea. Since it's part of our natural moisturizing factor, it's especially compatible with human skin.

Made from the fruit of the African marula tree, this fast-absorbing oil boasts natural essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and flavonoids. Marula is recognized for its ability to hydrate, smooth, and reduce redness of the skin thanks to fatty acids and natural antioxidants like vitamin E.

The pigment that gives hair and skin their color. Hyperpigmentation and dark spots are a result of patches of excess melanin; it can be caused by age, sun damage, and more.

The deadliest of all skin cancers, it develops in pigment-producing cells, most commonly on the upper back, trunk, head, neck, and lower legs. While the cure rate is high when caught early, unchecked cases can spread to internal organs. Malignant moles tend to have asymmetrical or irregular borders, uneven color, a diameter greater than six millimeters, and/or a rapidly changing appearance. While genetics and immune disorders increase risk, a history of sun- or tanning-bed exposure is the most preventable cause.

A chronic skin disorder characterized by brown patches of pigment usually on the forehead, cheeks, and chin. It tends to occur more in women — those with ethnic skin types, in particular — and can be triggered by hormonal changes, UV rays, and heat.

A cosmetic procedure during which a device studded with tiny needles pierces the skin to incite the body's natural healing response, resulting in increased cell turnover and collagen production to improve scarring, texture and fine lines. Usually performed in a series of 3-6 treatments.

These tiny white bumps look like whiteheads but are actually tiny cysts that form when keratin proteins become trapped under the skin with nowhere to go. They’re often found in the eye area where skin is thin and delicate.

Also known as vitamin B3, niacinamide is a great ingredient for any skin type or concern, but is particularly beneficial for skin that needs soothing and balancing. It helps to improve hydration, improve skin texture, and reduce redness as well as oil production.

Not to be confused with a humectant (attraction and transportation of water into the skin), an occlusive is another type of ingredient often found in moisturizers. It seals a protective layer on the surface of your skin to prevent moisture loss. Occlusive agents such as petrolatum, squalane, and shea butter are multitaskers that have proven to be the holy grail for dry, dehydrated skin, and also help with skin aging, sun damage, and wound healing.

Caused by growth of acne bacteria on the skin’s surface, papules are tiny, sore red spots that don’t form a head or appear to break through the skin.

Parabens are commonly used as preservatives protect cosmetics from bacteria and fungi. Although not restricted by FDA, they are known to disrupt hormone function, mimic estrogen, and possibly increase the risk of breast cancer and reproductive toxicity. To spot parabens in an ingredient list, look for prefixes like methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl.

Peptides are the proteins and molecules that make up the building blocks of skin, and keep it feeling smooth, firm, and bouncy. They send signals to cells which encourages them to produce more collagen (which our bodies loose as we age).

Perioral dermatitis is a red rash that occurs around your mouth and can sometimes spread to your nose. Your skin can be scaly, dry and flaky with swollen, inflamed bumps called papules. Patients also report burning and itching in areas where the rash is present. Perioral dermatitis can look like acne and is often mistaken for it. This condition requires internal treatment and external treatment via a Dermatologist. Though not fully determined, some causes of Perioral dermatitis are thought to be:

• Topical steroid creams

• Moisturizers and heavy face creams

• Toothpaste with SLS and heavy fragrance

• Hormonal changes or birth control medications

• Damaged skin barrier

• Internal gut imbalance

• Candida albicans

• Demodex mites

pH refers to the level of acidity or alkalinity of an ingredient, product or the skin. Our skin is naturally acidic, and can range from 4.4 to 5.6. The pH factor of skincare products is scientifically adjusted to work with specific ingredients to achieve desired benefits.

Pityrosporum (Malassezia) folliculitis is a common type of dermatitis. It happens when yeast that occurs as part of your skin’s natural flora multiplies and infects the hair follicles. The condition causes itchy pimples to form on your face, scalp and upper body. Healthcare providers treat this fungal infection with topical and systemic anti-fungal medications. Pityrosporum folliculitis often affects adolescents. It’s also more likely to affect people who sweat a lot and those who live in hot, humid areas.

Naturally occurring bacteria in your microbiome, prebiotics are a food source for probiotics (‘good’ bacteria). By feeding and increasing the amount of probiotics, they lead to a stronger skin barrier and improved moisture retention.

The ‘good’ bacteria that lives in our body and is essential to maintaining skin health. Probiotics strengthen skin’s barrier, which helps to soothe irritation, balance oil production, and create a natural shield that prevents dehydration and keeps external aggressors like pollution and bacteria out.

Psoriasis is a chronic skin disease where a buildup of skin cells causes large, raised patches of skin to become inflamed. Flare-ups often show up on the elbows, knees, scalp, feet, or palms and may itch, burn, or feel sore. There is no cure and flare-ups may come and go—often triggered by skin injuries like sunburn and scratches. A dermatologist will be able to determine the best treatments for psoriasis and may prescribe topical creams or oral medications.

A pus-filled type of inflammatory acne caused by clogged pores, commonly found on the back, chest, shoulders, and face. They appear as white dot surrounded by inflamed red skin.

Also known as vitamin A, retinol increases cell turnover and boosts collagen production. As a result, loose skin is plumped up so lines disappear, and pigmentation is lightened so skin appears brighter. Since it stimulates cell turnover in the lower layers of skin and prevents pore clogging, it’s also an effective anti-acne ingredient.

A common skin condition that causes excess facial redness, typically in the form of flushing, small red raised bumps, or broken blood vessels. It can be triggered by everything from the weather to exercise to skin-care ingredients to food.

A type of beta hydroxy acid (BHA; see above) derived from willow bark. Salicylic acid is oil soluble, which allows it to penetrate deeper into your oily pores. It’s a popular type of chemical exfoliant (see above) in products that treat acne.

Also called sebum plugs, these tube-like structures help transport sebum from your oil glands to the surface of the skin. While not a type of acne, they are often mistaken for blackheads, but they cannot extracted.

The oil on the top of your skin composed of lipids, particularly wax esters, triglycerides, and squalene. Some people naturally produce more sebum than others, giving them oilier skin. Sebum can also contribute to the development of acne.

A skin-care product that contains high concentrations of active ingredients and has superior penetration of the skin's surface when applied.

A souplike detergent agent that lathers easily. It’s a type of sulfate very commonly used in cleaning products, but it can irritate skin and cause damage to the outer layer of skin where the skin proteins live.

A measure of the amount of added protection a particular product provides against the sun’s rays. It’s important to note, however, that SPF is not an indication of the time it will take you to burn (SPF 50 needs to be applied just as frequently as SPF 30, for instance), and the SPF value of a sunscreen only takes into account its UVB protection.

Squalane is a light moisturizing oil that mimics a component of sebum, the oily substance our skin produces. It acts like an emollient when applied to the skin, which means that it can squeeze into the spaces between skin cells and make your face feel smoother and more moisturized without being too heavy or occlusive.

This essential lipid (or fat) is produced by the body to hydrate skin. It is often added to skincare products from plant-derived sources such as olives, as a highly effective antioxidant and emollient.

These cleansing agents remove dirt and oil and are responsible for creating lather. There are more than 100 different varieties — some synthetic, others from natural sources, like coconut or palm oil. They're found in facial cleansers, body washes, shampoos, and shaving creams. All types have the potential to dry and irritate the skin.

Sulfur has been used for skin concerns including acne for over a thousand years, including the Romans who soaked in sulfur hot springs to treat skin ailments. It is an excellent anti-acne agent as it dries existing blemishes and can help future pore blockages and blemishes. Oily and combination skin types may use sulfur masks to manage excess oil and shine.

The wavelength of ultraviolet light that leads to signs of aging by destroying existing collagen and elastin within the skin and undermining the body's ability to create more of each. These rays cause skin cancer, and they are also generated in tanning beds. They are constant throughout the year, which is why sun protection should be worn daily regardless of the season.

The high-energy wavelength of ultraviolet light that leads to darkened pigment in the form of tanning, freckles, and age spots — plus, sunburns. These rays are strongest during the summer months.

Retinoids are derived from Vitamin A. Retinoids serve all skin types and many skin concerns well. Finding the right retinoid for your needs can help in improving cell turnover, reducing visible lines, minimizing enlarged pores, and promoting an even skin tone. For beginners, it can be helpful to start by using a retinoid every third night and gradually increase the frequency of use as your skin adjusts. Retinoids can make skin more photo-sensitive, so use a UVA/ UVB broad-spectrum sunscreen daily.

This vitamin is essential for producing collagen and other important compounds in the body. And, when it’s applied topically, it can function as an antioxidant thus preventing UV-related damage. It can also inhibit the production of melanin (pigment) in the skin, making it a good option for lightening dark spots due to photoaging or other kinds of damage. But beware that all forms of vitamin C are not created equally—some are more or less effective or stable than others. Vitamin C often appears on the ingredients label as these derivatives—look for ingredients like magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl 6-palmitate, ascorbic acid sulfate, L-ascorbic acid, or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Vitamin E, which is also goes by the name Tocopherol or Tocopherol Acetate, is another powerful antioxidant. It’s essential for protecting the skin from free radical damage. Vitamin E also conditions the surface of the skin, making it soft and smooth to the touch.

Whiteheads are a form of acne that, like the name says, appear white on your skin. They sit right below the surface of the skin and occur when pores are clogged with dead skin cells or bacteria. Since the trapped sebum isn’t directly open to the skin’s surface, meaning it is not exposed to air, the infection doesn’t oxidize (like with blackheads) and the whitehead remains white.

Witch hazel comes from the leaves and bark of a North American shrub. It is a natural astringent that is commonly known to have soothing and anti-redness benefits. Witch hazel tightens the skin, minimizes the look of visible pores, and reduces excess shine.

Zinc is a natural element that’s used in skincare products to heal skin, soothe inflammation, and regulate oil production. Because acne is essentially inflammation caused in part by pore-clogging oil, zinc is an effective yet gentle acne-fighting ingredient.